KoS wrote:
Thanks.

No worries. I'd be happy to give you a run down on the casting. We'll try and organise for a day when I have to pore some silicon moulds.
casting is awesome I have been playing with it a lot as well. I get everything from
http://www.barnesonline.com.auIn my experiments I have been using
Pinky Sil It is a really viscus solution for making the molds and has like NO bubbeling problems. So you do not need a vacuum chamber or pour it from a great height.
I then use
Easy Cast to make the plastic version and use
BJB Grey asa solution mixer... basicly the casting stuff comes out like a milky white.. so I mix in thi to give it that Games-Workshop grey plastic look. It is infact better that was as it allows you to see detail a bit better than the white.
Anyway I would be very keen to hear your thoughts on casting. This is how I have been experimenting....

I use this same setup for both "press casting" and "point casting" I have no idea what they are really called I just made them up though experimentation... anyway.. a press mold is like what you are doing, were you cast 1/2 at a time. In the image the red is the part, the black is nail, the green are knitting needle pins and the blue is some random plastic, I use the frame work from the bloodletters from games-workshop. Basically this produces the best results in my tests...
You pour the casting agent into one of the blue shafts, this means the casting goop flows down to the bottom of the model and then fills upward. Pushing all the air OUT of the mold though air shafts made by using the pins. (you need to block one side of the blue while pouring or only have one blue entrance) This also means you get near perfect molds of the feet and ground points... you only have the mold lines and 3 "points" to clip off and file.
I use the exact some thing for "point casting" but with out the blue stuff (though I have not perfected this yet)... this time standing up exactly like doing a pin mount. Though I have tacked 2 pins for air vents. Then you can cast the entire model in one go, with no mold lines, and only 3 points to snip and file.
I have also been playing with
Banana Skin It is like super flexible. You can practically turn the mold inside out and it will bounce back.. this means when you do a mold of an entire object (without doing it in 1/2s) you can pull it off the original with out cutting it at all... So you can get 100% zero mold lines.
My end goal of starting this hobby is to do what some people here are doing and making my own minis form my own 2D art...