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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:20 am 
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Hello folks here I am again for the second panzer weathering class. As promised today I m gonna talk about weathering on armour well basically it is the same but with armour we should be extra careful. Also it is worthwhile to mention that there are a lot of styles of weathering. Personally I categorised them into 3

1st is clear style like nano or Luke (also realistic)
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2nd is realistic style roman, Cyril and seb have the same style
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3rd is the “artistic style” which you can find a lot examples.
Why I call that artistic because it is not very realistic but in the view of art it looks good in this way so a lot of people still use it. (personal opinion please dont feel offended)
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It is important to find a style that suits your taste.
Personally I like the realistic style and here are some experiences that I accumulate over the years. Well because there are a lot to say I try to be organised.
The steps usually are
After armour highlighting we start with scratches then follow by armour weathering. (Rust & oxidise) and finally ending with a final fix up. Well we will start with scratches which are one of the most important parts of the whole weathering process.
As you guys probably already know the scratches is done by the famous sponges technique. If you are not familiar with the sponges technique you can probably find in my early article. I found it is important to mix “real” scratches with “fake” scratches.
Sorry because I didt take WIP photos when I paint my spacewolf so I have to explain the concepts with a lot of other peoples photo and even maybe drawing haha. Ok back to the main topic creating real scratches on the model is critical. See examples on nano’s super cool marine. Real battle damages include scratches and bullet holes. All these battle damages are easy to create by using a modelling knife. Scratches, bullet holes and chips off the armour are very easy to be made and also due to it already got shapes so it is very easy to paint. A perfect Examples see ~~~hehe
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(ps sori nano i use your wip photo. plz dont sue me :oops: :oops: :oops: )
and also the real scratches will be very easy to paint
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see :D :D :D :D

Ok now let’s talk about “fake” scratches which I found very hard. It is essential keep the amounts and the size of the scratches. If the size is too huge it will lose the illusion. If there are too much of scratches the whole armour will be very messy. So keep it in mind don’t overdo well all in all the quality is more important then quantity.
Ok the shapes of the fake scratches are critical here are a examples of good shapes scratches.
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the scratches on seb Sentinel is outstanding ~!!!!! really amazing
so just need to know dont paint scratches into very very regular shapes
as our nature is to do every things in a symmetical very in here we are trying to be as ramdom as possiable.( attention seb use real mix with fake scratches on his sentinel as you may already found)

Also it is important the colour of scratches should match the armour. A chocolate brown colour is all purpose colour that can be used on any light armour. But if the armour colour is very dark like dark red, dark green or black I would recommend metallic chips or you can use an even darker colour . what is metallic chips? here you go seb is the master of this

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and this is how it works ~ the main colour you use is boltgun metal with a black line on top very very light metallic line under it .

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Last edited by panzer on Wed Apr 15, 2009 10:07 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:37 am 
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or with dark armour you can use even darker colour for chips like my temi

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IT DONT HAVE TO BE BLACK ~!!!!! PLEASE NOTICE BLACK IS THE VERY LEAST COLOUR THAT YOU WANT TO USE
i ll explain why later on
use a darker colour
with the white line under it usually it dont have to be white all the time it can be a mixture of armour colour with white
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also long line scratch is very popular
it is important to know
at the end of the line it should be sharp
also from my exps if there is any branch coming out it is better
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here you go ~
and if you use sponge tec
the chips will turn out like this

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USUALLY IF THE CHIPS IS TOO SMALL CAN JUST LEAVE IT ~! you dont need to put a white line under every chips ~!
also with those small chips if you want make it looks like a scratches put pure white under it make it look like a deep chips also the chips colour is darker then normal chips colour( well i probably didt explain well in this part so feel free to ask me question)



also it is worth to mention that the chips on the highlight part should always be lighter then the chips in the darker part

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for example the power fist ~ on the top part the chips is lighter but on the bottem part the chips should be darker due to the obvious reason
well this is tricky i m still practising on it hope someday i can give you a better example.


ok lets move on to bullet holes
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this mini is a perfect example .

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usually i did a little bit high light on the"tears" part make it more interesting

also if it is a white armour you can also do over all weathering

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well cyril marine give you a very good idea .



ok thats is all i can think up at the moment ~ if any more things come to my minds i ll add it up
so far you need to pay attention
1 the amount control
2 the size control
3 the shape control
as long as you did all these three right your scratches will looks as good as sebs

happy weathering and happy easter :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D


(ps if you guys got any good weathering tec plz feel free to share)

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 6:13 pm 
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fantastic article steve ive tried this and it hasnt worked out and i know why (no black line ontop of the scrathes and dings).




ps :shock: OMG swiss cheese marine

Edit: wopsies better call you steve aye

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Last edited by Vladimir Darkmoon on Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 7:44 pm 
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This article just answered a lot of questions i didn't realise i needed to ask :). Great work, thanks for taking the time to write this up. I will have to try it out on a few things this year.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:25 am 
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Ya, thankyou for typing up this article for us all Steve it was very informative and like the others I have learn't stuff I din't even new existed...like the dark line at the top of the chips :oops: .

-dwayne

p.s; I have to say it is crazy how much theory goes behind painting something so small..makes peoples (like myself) brain want explode trying to take it all in and understand...not to mention actually being able to put it into practise... :roll:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 11:54 am 
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Nice one steve, thanks for taking the time :) Hopefully this will give people some ideas about the weathering, and how to do the scratches!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:33 pm 
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Much appreciated Steve, for taking all the time to write this up for everyone. I'll certainly be giving it a go!!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 3:28 pm 
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Nice one Steve. THanks for the info!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:23 pm 
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cheers steve 8) good article . keep chippin

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 11:25 am 
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Yes!!! :P very good my brother! You are one of the best I think now at painting chips.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:20 pm 
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Yep, no doubt you are a fine exponent of this technique Steve - no doubt at all. It's definately catching on and articles like this only serve to further 'de-mystify' the technique.

I think it may be a case of 'spot the clean mini' at this years GD though... :P

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:40 pm 
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thank you folks for the support .
@Vladimir Darkmoon

no black line ontop of the scrathes and dings may be one of the things that cause the it not working but if you dont mind you can send me the photo of your chips i can give you some advices :D :D :D

@ kyle and seb

haha you guys just been too kind :D :D :D
we gonna have meet up soon :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:47 pm 
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ok its time for update :D :D :D

need to go to page 2 too long

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:47 pm 
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.............

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:48 pm 
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writing ~....

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